Silhouette Images

Above are my silhouette images created in the studio. I see now the importance of structure and size when making a design as I think that the silhouette created is quite small and needs more detail.

Pinterest Link - Estella

http://gb.pinterest.com/naomihalfacre/estella/

Split Lip & Scars

To create a split lip and scars you will need: 

- Wax

- Bruise wheels

- Collodium (non flexible, makes deep scarring)

- Dermashield ( This product is non greasy which means the wax will not fall off the skin, moisturiser causes this to do so) 

- Kryolan fixer spray

- Kryolan Tuplast - This product comes in various colours. Generally used for old scarring. 

- Duo glue (Dry with cool hair dryer then pick when clear. 

- Latex (Dry with hairdryer and then build up)

- Kryolan Supracolour.

When making wounds or split lips you will need to think about what made it, how old it is and the depth of the wound. This is the same when making bruises. 

 (To make bruises & cuts see previous blog posts)

To make the split lip: 

- Dermashield the lip to protect from the products.

- Dab the Collodium over the top lip.

- Use a palette knife to get a ridge in the skin, always pinch the lip together whilst doing this. 

- Dry with a hairdryer, paying attention the heat you are placing onto the skin. 

- The Collodium comes off with warm water and toner. 

- Apply blood and some bruise wheel to make the split lip really effective. 

To make scars: 

- Use the Tuplast to make scars. Place over the skin where the scar is. 

- Allow the Tuplast to dry. 

- Use Kryolan Supracolour to make scar colours, blend with your fingers and then powder to seal.

Miss Havisham Hair Practise

In order to have everything prepared for my timed assessment, I practised my hair design. The design consists of two pig tails twisted and then wrapped around to create a bun. The veil i am using will then clip into the bun at the top. The front section is curled. As my model has a fringe i am going to get as much of the short hair into the barrel curl as I can, and the rest will be sprayed with water to show sweat.The practise means that I am more confident with the design and also helps me with time management.

Silhouette Practise

In order to create a silhouette with Victorian aspects I had to research on Pinterest to see what shapes created the best silhouettes. From this research I created the following  hair style. 

 

I put the hair up into a ponytail and sectioned the tail in half. With the bottom half I folded it under, the top half was then folded over. I then added flowers to the hair to add some detail to it. I think the silhouette would look better with a veil over the top which will be picked up. When I looked at the hairstyle from the back, it just looked like a bun, so I pulled out the bottom half and decided that this should be curled and backcombed slightly to create more of a shape. 

 

I think that the flowers make the look romantic. The backcombing of the hair shows the decay. As the hair is pulled off the face this could represent the aspect of cruel. Therefore this look is a combination of all the aspects discussed earlier on in this blog.

Silhouette Pinterest

http://www.pinterest.com/naomihalfacre/silhouette/

Miss Havisham Face Chart One

My first face chart for the interpretation of 'Miss Havisham' is based on blotchy skin and cracked lips.

For this look I will need:

• CrownBrush UK foundation. 
• Kryolan Dermacolour concealer. 
• Supercolour - red, green and blue to create sepia. Red for the blotchy skin. 
• Grey spray for the eyebrows and hair. 
• Illamasqua satin primer. 
• Glycerine on the skin to create sweat. 
• Duo for the dry cracked effect. 

- Cleanse, tone and moisturise. 

- Apply Illamasqua satin primer. 

- Use CrownBrush Uk foundation to create the base. 

- Dermacolour to get rid of the imperfections. 

- Start with the red to make the skin blotchy. In the triangle of the cheek, on the forehead and under the ears. 

- Apply some brown and red Supracolour under the eye to make the eyes look tired and red from crying. 

- Add duo to the pale lip. Rub off when dry to create a cracked lip. 

Miss Havisham Face Chart Two

My second face chart is based on the gaunt look using a colour palette of greys, blue and yellows. The lips are cracked. 

For this look I will need: 

• CrownBrush Uk foundation 
• Kryolan Dermacolour
• Supracolour 
• Grey spray for hair and eyebrows.
• Illamasqua satin primer 
• Duo glue.

- Cleanse, tone and moisturise. 

- Apply Illamasqua satin primer. 

- Apply the CrownBrush Uk foundation. Only conceal if there are any imperfections. 

- Mix the blue and sepia Supracolour to create a mixture of tired and gaunt looks.

- Apply under the eye and on the lid, also under the cheek bone. 

- Apply some blue colour to the lip and add Duo glue. When the glue is dry rub the lip to create a cracked lip effect. 

- Spray grey into the hair and on the eyebrows.

The design would be like the one above showing tired eyes and a gaunt face, however the skin base will be more yellow and the shadows more blue.

Miss Havisham Face Chart Three

My chosen design is face chart number three. The design takes aspects that I have been taught over the last couple of weeks. My design includes dry cracked lips, blotchy skin and dark tired eyes. 

To create this look I will need: 

• CrownBrush Uk Foundation 
• Kryolan Dermacolour concealer
• Supracolour - red, green and blue mixed to make a sepia colour. Red for blotchy skin. 
• Grey Spray for eyebrows and hair. 
• Glycerine for sweat
• Duo to create a cracked lip look.  
• Illamasqua satin primer

- Cleanse, tone and moisturise. 

- Apply satin primer. 

- Conceal out imperfections. 

- Mix red, green and blue Supracolour together to make a sepia colour. Apply this under the eyes, on the lids and under the cheek bones. Blend with the fingers to make the gaunt look more realistic. 

- With the red Supracolour dab onto the skin, under the ears, around the hair line and around the mouth.

- Apply a little bit of blue on to the lip.

- Dab some Duo glue onto the finger. Build up a layer until dry. Apply Duo glue on to the blotchy areas too. Once the glue has dried, rub off until it looks like dry cracked skin. 

- Spray the hair and eyebrows with grey spray.

-With a stipple sponge apply some strokes of red to look like cuts. 
- With a stipple sponge dab on some glycerine to make it look like the skin is sweating.

Miss Havisham Face Chart Four

My fourth face chart is based on the older 'Miss Havisham'. The skin will be pale based and then I will fill in the lines were the face ages. 

To make this look I will need: 

• CrownBrush Uk Foundation Palette
• Kryolan Dermacolour concealer
• Illamasqua Satin Primer - to create a dewy effect under the pale skin. 
• Kryolan Supracolour - Mix red, green and blue to create a sepia colour.
• Duo - To create cracked lips. 
• White spray for the hair and eyebrows. 
• Glycerine - For sweat

- Prepare the skin by cleanse, tone and moisturise. 

- Apply the satin primer to create the base. 

- Using the CrownBrush Uk foundation, mix with a moisturiser to make a dewy look. 

- Dermacolour concealer to get rid of all imperfections. 

- Mix together the red, green and blue from Kryolan Supracolour and get your model to screw up their face to create the lines were aging is found. 

- Really blend these lines into the skin. You can add moisturiser to make the lines look more natural.

-  Apply some glycerine to the skin to create the look of sweat.

- Spray a mascara wand with grey spray. Brush the eyebrows back and up to create a bushy eyebrow. 

- Use the grey spray in the hair to complete the look. 

Hair Design Four

My final design is the more complicated design for my 'Miss Havisham' look. Two strands at the front are left out once again and two strands at either side of the head at the bottom. The hair is separated into two sections horizontally through the middle of the hair. The bottom section is then curled up and pinned. The top section is curled down and under itself and then pinned. The two strands at the bottom of the head are then plaited and pulled through the gap where the two shapes meet. I struggled to make the top section fold under itself and look like a full shape. Therefore I would need to use padding and possibly curl the hair in that direction before putting it up. 

Hair Design Three

The third hair design consists of two pigtails twisted and pulled up into a bun. I like the shape that this creates at the back. On my design i used barrell curls at the front, however on my hair doll i pulled the hair back at the sides and put into the bun. I think that pulling the hair back into the bun makes the look, once again, more 'Estella', therefore I will leave the front section curled. The curls I can then backcomb slightly, making them wispy, which will show the decay of 'Miss Havisham'.

Hair Design Two

 

The second design is a simple french pleat pulled. The hair will be pulled back off the face and then wisps pulled out to create a decaying effect with the veil. 

 

Once again i think the look is more 'Estella', therefore I will not be using it within my final design. 

Hair Design One

Hair Design One is a simple look with the hair parted so that half will be up and the other half down and wispy. The top half pony tail is pulled loose, the tail is taken through the loose bit of hair where the hair band would once be. This is done multiple times until the hair has created a twist at either side. 

I will not be using this design for my final 'Miss Havisham' look because I think it's more 'Estella'. The design is too soft and more girly rather than bridal hair.

Life Expectancy in Victorian Britain

Death In Victorian Farnham. Occasional Publication. Brigid Fice. 2009. (Page 35)

The average life expectancy for people living in Britain in the Victorian era was 40 or below, a figure a lot lower then today's expectancy. This would have been because of the poor living conditions and high rates of disease such as tuberculosis and cholera. The next chart shows the life expectancy once the child has past the age of five; many children would not make it past this age. Much  like the siblings of 'Pip' in 'Charles Dickens' 'Great Expectations'. Deaths would not be registered like they are today as it was not a requirement until 1847. (Fice, 2009). Many causes of death were determined by the registry if the deceased hadn't previously seen a doctor. Some causes of death were determined as 'Dropsy', 'Syncope' or 'Palsy'. Dropsy was a large quantity of water found in the body, Syncope was caused by a sudden loss of blood pressure leading to consciousness. Lastly, Palsy was the loss of muscle control. Symptoms which would be easily treatable today would have caused death in others. It shows just how much medical science has developed over the years.

Death In Victorian Farnham. Occasional Publication. Brigid Fice. 2009. (Page 36)

Victorian Hair Pinterest

http://www.pinterest.com/naomihalfacre/victorian-hair/

The Multiple Miss Havisham's

Helena Bonham Carter. Great Expectations, directed by Mike Newell. 2012.

Helena Bonham Carter played 'Miss Havisham' in the 2012 remake of 'Charles Dickens' 'Great Expectations', directed by Mike Newell. The only aspects I like about the portrayal of 'Miss Havisham' here is the costume and maybe the hair. The costume is yellowed enough to show the state that the character has been in. The hair, lost its youthful glow and colour, replaced by grey, dry unexpectedly nearly perfect hair. I had expected 'Miss Havisham' to have decayed hair, for it to be less perfect then the obvious wig placed on Helena's head. The hair still looks too perfect. If you hadn't been out of a room or seen sunlight for ages let alone a bath; the hair would be awful looking. I like the idea of the makeup, however you can quite obviously see the product on and around the eyes, maybe it should have been tinged with less red colours and more browns. Okay you want to show that she has been crying, but this just looks like eyeshadow...once again too perfect! My idea of 'Miss Havisham' would be that her makeup and skin would look disgusting. Oil lamps causing havoc to the texture and colour of her skin. Helena's skin also looks too perfect, like they haven't taken into consideration the conditions of which 'Miss Havisham' was living in. Surely she would have scratches or irritations? Blotchy skin from the heat of the fire?  

Gillian Anderson. Great Expectations. Directed by Brian Kirk for the BBC. 2011

The next 'Miss Havisham' is the fabulous Gillian Anderson for the BBC's remake in 2011. This portrayal appears to be a bit better then the previous, although there are still some aspects like the hair which seem to be too perfect still? I wonder what hairspray she used all those years to keep those barrel curls tight? 
The only thing I really love about the makeup here is the dry lips and dark eyes. The eyes are not as red and heavy as the previous example. The dark circles look more natural and blended to show the turmoil. The lips are more realistic too then the previous. Pale, cracked and flaky is exactly what I thought 'Miss Havisham's' lips would look like. Around the mouth it is visible that the makeup artist has tried to add some ageing to the face. It appears that this 'Miss Havisham' is a younger one as there isn't much ageing to the skin. 
I love the decaying dress and flowers though. Definitely saves the look.

Obviously because the two previous looks had to be made for TV they needed to be more subtle so that HD TV would not pick up the product. The same is not said for theatre. I love the over the top makeup and think that from ages away it would look amazing and so realistic. 

Paula Wilcox, Jo Cliffords remake of Great Expectations. 2013. Vaudeville theatre London

From close up this makeup looks like a contouring advertisement, from far away you see the haunted 'Miss Havisham'. From far away the character will look gaunt. I like that they have used a older actress as this will help with the aged aspect! I think that the eyes could have been darker and the hair more messy. This 'Miss Havisham' looks as if she has still tried to take care of herself, to keep her youthful appearance maybe in case of her loved ones return? 

Joan Hickson. 1981 remake of Great Expectations. Directed by Julian Amyes

I think that Joan Hickson makes an amazing 'Miss Havisham'. As an older lady it would have been easier for the makeup artist to make the look authentic to the age of 'Miss Havisham'. The makeup is natural, adding to the structure and texture of the skin. I think that this look is so much better then the modern versions. The modern versions rely too much on product, whereas older versions are more natural.



The idea of how 'Miss Havisham' should look is always down to your own interpretation. These looks have definitely given me inspiration for certain aspects, to create my own idea, and have also shown me what works and what doesn't. I also need to take into consideration where my 'Miss Havisham' will be seen, whether on TV or on stage. As the look is to be made for TV, i will need to think about the amount of product I use and how well blended the product is. 

Skin Inspiration - Blotchy Skin

 

Blotchy Skin Inspiration:

-Red uneven patches

-Yellowing under some parts

-Around the ears

Skin Inspiration - Tone

Skin Inspiration: 

- Dark circles

-Yellowing Skin 

-Red eyes

-Greasy/ Sweaty Skin

Miss Havisham Assessment Practise

For my Miss Havisham interpretation I decided that I wanted to make the skin sweaty with pale and yellow undertones. The skin around the hairline, ears and the side of one lip would be blotchy and dry. Her lips would be dry and flaking off, along with the skin around the hairline and on the ears. Miss Havisham's eyes would be dark from the sleepless nights heartbreak gave her. 

I used the Kryolan Supracolour palette to create the blotchy skin. I then added some duo glue on top of this which when dry flakes away. I used a stipple brush to create scratches, as I wanted the hairline to be irritated by her wedding veil. 

When rubbing away the glue I need to be careful not to take too much off as it will not look realistic enough for camera. Once the glue has been rubbed away I touched up the red colour and added some neutral tones to create the different stages of dry skin. As you can see here, the eyes are dark and sweaty. This would signify the state of the skin from the oil lamps.

I wanted to add a dry area around the lip to make the dry lips stand out more, looking more authentic. For this, I had to build up the layers, leave to dry and then add more. I only rubbed away a little bit to make the look more subtle. As you can see the lips have a blue tinge to them showing how cold and dry they would be. 

For my final look I will fade out the eyebrows with either dry shampoo or grey spray placed onto a mascara wand. Her hair will also be grey with a veil. The veil will be tea died to create the yellowing look that the material would have after years with no sunlight. I think I need to build up the sweat more so that it is more obvious on camera.