Evaluation

Make-up in Motion Evaluation

Creating a continuous look for TV and film was a lot more challenging than I had originally thought. Obviously because everything is shot in HD now, everything needed to be perfect otherwise any imperfections will be seen so clearly. This meant minimal makeup carefully applied and a certain eye to detail.

My idea for the character of Miss Havisham was sweaty skin with a gaunt face. Areas of the skin would be red and sore with dry skin, from the veil aggravating the skin. I managed to complete the look within the time given. However, I didn’t follow my first face chart therefore some red patches were out of place. So I made a new face chart to follow the first look that I had completed. This allowed me to make the look completely the same. The grazes on the shoulder were added last minute and not documented, so in the second assessment I wasn’t sure where to place the graze and how intense it should be. The hair was a simple bun hidden by the veil. I used dry shampoo.

The design for Estella was simple, natural makeup with curls to frame the face. My face chart was accurate and easy to follow as I had learnt from the Miss Havisham assessment that the image needs to be exactly the same as what is put on the model. The hair was a simple braided bun with curls at the front accessorised with some long drop diamond earrings. I wanted to make the look simple as I think Estella was more naturally pretty.

Claudia and Quentin was an interesting look to create. For Quentin, I wanted to make him look tired and ill from the abuse he received at the hands of the femme fatale Claudia. Claudia I wanted to make a dark character, based on ‘The Orphan’ film. I wanted her hair to be sleek and unwashed with blacked out eyes to show no emotion. The whole image needed to be dark to show a sense of evil. For both of the characters I used the Kryolan Supracolour Palette to mix together the colours to create the dark circles, grazes and tear stains. I enjoyed creating these looks and enjoyed the photography side as I got to create a dark image. 

Overall I am happy with the looks that I have created. I have definitely learnt from the assessment about continuity and the subjects it was based on. 

Quentin Final Look

Above are my final images for the character of Quentin.

For this look I used: 

- Kryolan Supracolour Palette

- Stiple Sponge

I mixed together red, yellow and green to create the brown colour for under the eyes and then used a stiple sponge to create the grazes on the cheek. 

Moodboard of Ideas - Quentin

Above is my moodboard of initial ideas for the character Quentin. As Quentin was the subject of the femme fatale Claudia's evil ways, i thought that he should look tired and grazed from the result of this. 

Quentin Inspiration Pinterest Link

www.pinterest.com/naomihalfacre/quentin-hair-and-makeup-inspiration/

Claudia Pinterest Inspiration Link

http://gb.pinterest.com/naomihalfacre/claudia-hair-and-makeup-inspiration/

Claudia Final Look

Above is my final image for the character of Claudia. The hair is sleek and pulled over the eye.. I wanted the whole image to be dark to create a certain mood about it. The eye makeup was Kryolan supracolour powdered down to create a tear stained effect. I wanted the eye makeup to be more than just a tear stain so i dragged the look down the cheek. 

Creating Masculine Hair

To create masculine hair you will need to: 

- Create a horseshoe section on the models hair. This is basically the top section of hair at the crown. 

- Secure the section out of the way. 

- With the remaining hair create a flat french pleat, by pulling the pleat apart from the centre.

- Neaten the section to create the desired shape and texture. 

- The hair at the side needs to be pulled down to create side burns.

- Next you will need to create the side parting. Section parting into the left hand side of the horseshoe section. 

- Pull the remaining hair into the pleat and disguise the ends of the hair to create a smooth finish. 

- Finish by checking that the silhouette looks manly.

Scars created with Moulds

12. Scars with moulds

To create scars with moulds you will need:

-      Moulds

-      Gelatine

-      Vaseline

-      Prosaid

-      Powder

-      Pin

-      Supracolour

How to:

-      Vaseline the mould.

-      Melt the gelatine and place into the mould.

-      Leave for 5 hours to set or until hard

-      Get the scar out of the mould by using a pin.

-      Stick the scar onto the skin with prosaid

-      Powder over the mould so the scar edges disappear.

-      Also add water to get rid of the edges.

-      Add colour to the scar to make it look more realistic.

Burns

To create burns you will need: 

- Tissues
- Gelatine 
- Supracolour
- Collodium 
- Fake Blood
- Spirit Gum

Once again you will need to think about what created the burn and the shape and time the heat was on the skin. 

How to: 

- Apply the tissue to the skin using Collodium. Break the tissue up to create more of a 3D effect on the skin. Layer the tissue.
- Add some colouring to the tissue to make the colouring found on burns. 
- Apply fake blood  to the tissue. This gives the burn the shiny effect created when heat touches the skin. 
- Add gelatin to the skin and tissue to build it up as extra skin.

To heat the gelatin: 

Take a bowl of water and place the gelatin inside. Microwave for 40 seconds. Test on yourself before placing onto the models skin in case you do actually burn the skin. Remove with Spirit gum. 

Claudia Face Chart Four

The fourth face chart just focuses on the eyes making them the main centre of attention. The rest of the face is left bare with just a base for makeup. Once again I will block the eyebrows out.

For this look you will need: 

- Sleek foundation 

- Derma colour camouflage 

- Illamasqua Matte Primer 

- Illamasqua translucent powder

- Sleek Au Naturel eye palette in moss, bark, cappuccino and taupe. 

- Kryolan supracolour or mascara. 

- Glycerine. 

-Create the base with primer, foundation, concealer and powder. 

- Make the smokey eye with the eye palette using the lightest colour in the inner eye to the darkest colour at the outer eye. 

-Block out the eyebrows by moisturising the hairs and then foundation over the top. 

- Place some supracolour under the eye and drag down using water. 

- Place some glycerine over the smudged area to create a dewy effect. (Make sure not to get into the eye.)

Claudia Face Chart Three

Design three goes back to the strong eyed look paired with the ombre lip. Once again the skin is left bare with no blusher etc, and the eye brows will be blocked out to open up the eye. 

For this look you will need: 

- Sleek Foundation 

- Illamasqua Matte Primer 

- Derma Colour Camouflage 

- Illamasqua translucent powder 

- M.A.C chromographic pencil in black. 

- M.A.C lipmix in blue and black. 

- Create the base using primer, foundation, concealer and powder. 

- Block out the eyebrows by moisturising and placing foundation over the top. 

- Line the top eye and under the eye. Wing the top liner out towards the hair line. 

- Create an ombre look on the lip by using the black on the outer edge blending into dark blue.

Claudia Face Chart Two

The second design is taking aspects of the first and developing them. Once again I wanted the main attention to be on the eyes and the lips, however this time being less bold. Also, the eyebrows will be blocked out to really open the eye. The face will also be matte and clear again to keep the attention on the eyes and lips. 

For this look you will need: 

- Sleek Foundation 

- Illamasqua Matte Primer 

- Derma Colour Camoflague 

- Sleek Au Naturel eye palette 

- Illamasqua translucent powder 

- Supracolour (black and darkest red mixed) 

-Start by applying the base. Primer, foundation, conceal and powder. 

-Create a smokey eye using the colours; moss, bark, cappuccino and taupe. Start with the lightest colour, to the second lightest and end with the darker colour and then blend. 

- The lips are created using Kryolan Supracolour palette. The black and darkest red are mixed to create an ombre look. 

- Block out the eyebrows by moisturising and adding foundation over the top of the hairs. 

Claudia Face Chart One

My first Claudia design is based around the eye and mouth being the main centre of attention. To create this look I used: 

- Sleek Foundation 

-Illamasqua Matte Primer 

- Derma Colour Camouflage 

- Rimmel scandal eyes liner 

- M.A.C Chromographic liner in red, black and white.

- Illamasqua translucent powder 

- Sleek face form 

- M.A.C black lipmix 

The idea of this design is that the attention is on the eyes and the lips so the skin will just be clear with a little highlighter placed under the eye. 

-Start by applying the base, primer, foundation and conceal only if the client has blemishes. 

- Start by lining the eyes with Rimmel scandal eyes liner. 

- Use M.A.C chromographic liner in white to line the inside of the eye. 

- Line under the eye and add red in the gap between the top eye line and the bottom eye line. 

- Pull these lines up to just above where the eye creases. 

- Highlight under the eye with sleek face form 

- Block out the eyebrows by moisturising the brow and adding foundation over the top.

Claudia Hair Design Four

Hair design four takes aspects from other designs. In this design I will use the front left section to hide one eye and then tuck it under a feather choker. The rest of the hair is smooth like the other designs with a strong middle parting. At the back of the hair will be a row of bows. This is my least favourite design as it doesn't have a nice finish. 

Claudia Hair Design Three

The next design has a strong side parting which would be flat to the head and smooth. This will then lead to rows of bows on the back of the head. The design can be done in sections so that every part of the hair is smooth. Once again I would finish with shine spray. 

The end of the hair can be curled to finish the look. However I think this could make the style quire dated.

Claudia Hair Design Two - Chosen Design

Design two consists of the bow look with a harsher finish. The front section will be left on the left side to hide one eye. The hair will then be tucked under a feather choker. The rest of the hair will be pulled to the left side and placed into a bow look. This means that the right side will be slick creating a harsh look. I want the front section that hides the eye to have a wet look. I will also add shine spray to the rest of the hair to help make it look sleek. I think that this is the design that I am going to use to create Claudia, however I want to work on making the hair tighter so it looks completely smooth to the head.

Claudia Hair Design One

Hair design one is based on the character 'Esther' from the film 'The Orphan'. In the film the character is trying to make herself look younger, therefore using bows in the hair. I thought that I could take the bows and turn it into a hairstyle instead. The look here consists of a bow on the back of the head with the two front sections plaited and brought back and pinned by the bow. I don't think that this look says Gothic horror. I think there needs to be a certain harshness about the style for Claudia.

Dirtying Down face and teeth

Dirtying down refers to making the client look dirty, unwashed etc. This is especially used in the TV and film industry. If you are creating a look that requires the model to be dirtied down, you need to think about the scenes in which the look will appear, for instance if they are in the shower you will need products that wont run under the water. Grease based products would be ideal. Furthermore, always remember to check the ingredients in the makeup, especially if you are on location as some products may burn the skin under the sun. 

No Make-up Look:

- Put on a base making sure to cover spots. 

- Use grease blusher. This won't move under the water and will blend easily into the skin making it look like there is no product there. 

- Use waterproof mascara. 

Taking Teeth Out:

To make it seem that there are no teeth use Kryolan Teeth Paint, which is available from most make-up suppliers, like Charles Fox. 

- Dry the tooth with a cotton bud. The product will not set on a wet tooth. 

- Also apply the product with a baby bud. 

- Using various colours can create different effects. Black completely takes the tooth out, nicotine effect makes it appear as if the teeth have been heavily stained. There are also silver and gold colours available for more fashion looks. 

- Keep the mouth open and allow the product to dry. 

- Use Methys Spirit to remove from the tooth. Make sure that the cotton bud is not dripping in the liquid as it should not be ingested. The spirit also had a strong taste so use a little bit.

Dirtying the hair:

To cheat making the hair look dirty without the hair actually being dirty, you can use various tricks. 

- Use wet gels, hair dressing promade and water sprays to create that greasy effect. 

- Remember that the hair is greasy from the roots, so the product needs to start from the roots. 

Dirty face and hands: 

To create a dirty face you can use: 

- Supracolour Palette

- Dirt, powder concrete and other various powders, available from most make-up suppliers.

- Use stipple sponges to apply. 

- Coloured spray available from Kryolan in various shades, brown and dirty grey are the ones used in the images below. 

- If making up the hands, remember that the grime will need to go under the nail. Stretch the fingers to make the dirt go into all areas of the hand, there should be no white bits on show. 

- Work the product into the hand with moisturiser to make it look more natural. 

- Don't powder the product, use fixing spray to set. The fixing spray is perfect to use in the heat.

To dirty the face: 

- Screw the face up to get the product over the cracks, and then blend. 

- Using the Kryolan sprays to create mud splattered effects. 

- Add red to the face to make them look as if they have been out in the weather for a long time.

Smoky Eyes

To create smokey eyes look at the shape of the eye and the colour so that you can compliment it with the shape created and colour. 

I used Sleek Au Natural to create my smokey eye. 

How To:

- Outline the eye with eyeliner to create the shape for the smokey eye. 

- Make sure to start at the corner of the eye and take it to the outer edge. The bottom lash line starts at the outer edge towards the inner eye. 

- Follow the natural line through the eye from the bottom lash line. This will create the winged look. Avoid creating a Nike tick look as this is not following the line through. 

- Join the top lash line with the bottom and fill in the gap. 

- To create different looks you could keep this clear. 

- To create the smokey eye start at the inner eye with the lighter colour of your chosen palette. Take this to the outer edge of the eye. 

- Where the eye is lined add the darkest colour and blend into the eye and around the crease. 

- Add the second lightest colour to highlight the middle of the eye. 

- Blend all the colours together. 

- If you add water to a powder eyeshadow this will create a thick consistency which can easily be blended unlike grease based products.

- Adding water means that the product wont fall onto the skin. 

How to create: Smooth Hair

In order to create smooth hair you will need: 

- Hairdryer

- Shine Spray

- Hair Comb

Smooth hair can be created after blow drying the hair or before creating a hair style. To create smooth hair before placing into a hairstyle you will need to: 

-Thoroughly brush the hair so that all the knots and tangles are removed.

- Sectioning the hair for your chosen hairstyle, take a section and brush the comb through it. Hold the hairdryer horizontal to the hair and blast with heat to create a smooth finish. Pull the brush back to the roots to start again. 

- Repeat the process until all of the hair is smooth to the head with no fly away bits. 

- To finish the look, use shine spray to make the hair look healthy.

 

 

Holding the hair dryer horizontal allows for the hairs to be sleeked back and made to be smooth.

Adding shine spray makes the hair look healthy

The technique can be used over the hairstyle so that the whole look is smooth.

Moodboard of Initial Ideas - Claudia

Claudia and Quentin Brief & Initial Thoughts

Claudia

Claudia is a girl in her twenties. As a child she was left alone to develop with little parental guidance and through her relationship with T.V. movies developed an unhealthy relationship with Horror films, believing this to be the way life really is.

All the scenes take place in various parts of Claudia’s apartment, which is European in style with a great deal of kitsch décor. She is agoraphobic and is kept in touch with the outside world by her neighbours who provide her with her every day requirements.  She models herself on a variety of girls often twisting her look to suit whichever film she is watching at the time and there is often a nod to the main character in the current film within her appearance.

The script portrays her as psychotic and there is always the feeling that although her character is scripted/can be seen as humorous, danger is just around the corner.   However all this is normal to Claudia and she is of a cheerful disposition in this mad world of hers.

Quentin

Claudia has an imaginary boyfriend, Quentin, who is long suffering and a constant disappointment to her. They don’t live together but he visits regularly and they talk on the telephone if he can’t get in to see her. As he is part of her imagination his appearance changes to suit her mood. Sometimes he will be a Christiano Renaldo/David Beckham looking guy, whilst in another scene he will appear as a Pete Docherty type, Daniel Craig type or a Hollyoaks Babe. If she is having a bad day he will morph into an uncouth couch potato chav with all that brings with it.

He is as into the horror film genre as she and into role-playing to suit her whims and moods.

Claudia has a paranoid suspicion that he is constantly having affairs behind her back and keeps him firmly under her thumb, sometimes restraining him or keeping him prisoner in one of the rooms.

My initial thoughts from the brief is to base the characters on the film 'Orphan', based on a 33 year old woman named 'Esther' posing as a child to be adopted by a family. The mother later finds out that the impostor is actually from a mental hospital. Therefore, I thought 'Claudia' could base herself on 'Esther' as both suffer from some kind of mental illness. I then thought that 'Quentin' could have some kind of mask, like in 'The Strangers', restraining people from seeing his looks, linking to the idea of her paranoia. He could have cuts over his wrists from being restrained.

'Orphan' 2009, Directed by Jaume Collet-Serra. Available to view: www.starpulse.com